I change the fuel pump and filter , spark plugs and wires and it still want start

I know I shouldn’t pay any attention to EPA estimates, but others have reported getting between 17 mpg and 20 mpg in moderate city traffic. I am getting between 10 mpg and 12 mpg.

I recently replaced an Idle Air Control Valve, Serpentine belt, Exhaust Gas Recirculator Valve, and had my Catalytic Converters (all 3) checked. I don’t drive with a lead foot, I don’t start off the line too fast and I don’t come to sudden stops.

Anyway, I also ran a KOEO self test (uses 2-digit codes) and it came up with the left and right oxygen sensors detecting lean, and Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Failure. That last one sounds bad, but then again I have one of those hidden fuel shut-off buttons inside the car on the floor next to the driver door, so it may have just saved into memory the fact that I used that.

When I took it to a muffler shop, thinking it was the cat converters causing a problem, they said that it’s not the cats and that they smell unburned gas. Maybe a leaky fuel pump or fuel line? Maybe the fuel injector? At this point, I have no idea, but I can’t afford to have bad gas mileage. Could someone help?

it will eventually start backup but i never know when the power goes. replaced fuel pump and a starter. today it stalled and made a few popping noises while trying to start it up. now it will not stay running at all. help!

car has no spark and fuel pump is not ingaging when turning on the key. Have changed plugs wires distributer coil and ignition swithch still now spark or fuel. there is no fule pump relay if there is I canot find it the roll over swithch has been checed also. am at a loss at what to do next any ideas..

I had to take it off to get the radiator fan out to work on some things, now the radiator fan turns on immediately when I turn the key to the "on" position, and the fuel pump doesn’t seem to be turning on. I can’t even start the car. I presume I activated the airbag sensor because I didn’t wait long enough after disconnecting the battery.

well i have a 1993 ford taurus v6 3.0 and the relay control module(F1DF-12B577-AA) keeps on burning out about a mile down the road. If it would help i have replaceed the , fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay(square box beside battery), voltage regulator. None of these helped.

Should the pink wire on the ccrm wire harness have a constant low voltage reading even with the wire harness unpluged from the ccrm? This car has no spark and the fuel pump dose'nt come on.

I changed the fuel pump and the car ran. Filled the tank up and drove 2 blocks and it died and wouldn't start it has no spark I've changed the ignition module, pickup coil j box and even the whole distributor

I have a 1998 Ford Taurus that died while driving it on the freeway. I initially thought it was the fuel pump but a mechanic that I know told me it is more likely to be the fuel shut off valve. Where can I find this on a 1998 Ford Taurus?
Thanks for your help guys. I found it very easily. However, when I hit the red button it didn't really move much, I only heard a click and didn't feel it go down significantly. I didn't hear the click again when I tried pushing it a second time. Is that subtle click all I need? The car still won't start. The battery is brand new and I have a feeling that I am not getting power in the cable going to the shut off switch. I tried lighting a bulb with the battery, the towing light adapter and it lit but it wouldn't light with the cable going into the shut off switch. Any ideas on what my next move should be?

I neglected to put the year of the taurus ( 1995 ) in my first question. Sorry for the confusion. I don't beleive the engine overheats. Has anyone heard of the fuel pump problems on this year of taurus. Could it be causing something like a vapor lock, at the high temperatures that I have mentioned. Thanks, Harry